1997 Travel Log #3 - June 30 to July 20
Fort Kent, Maine
pictures not developed in time for Travel Log #2
Monday June 30
I repacked my computer, etc. in the original boxes for traveling and checked out
of the Motel at 10:55 AM with 5 minutes to spare (checkout time is 11 AM). I
headed south on US Hwy. #1 to Passamaquoddy in the south-east corner of Maine!
If you saw the movie "Pete's Dragon", it's about a boy and his invisible dragon
near Bar Harbor in the town of `Passamaquoddy'. Now you can see how I plan my
travels... Actually, there is no town. It's a bay named after the Passamaquoddy
Sign near Passamaquoddy Bay, Maine
I then crossed the border into Canada for the 3rd time: New Brunswick was the
providence and Atlantic was the time zone (ADT - Atlantic Daylight Time) so I
set my clock (in the pickup, I don't wear a watch) one hour later. I stayed at
Smith's Motel in Pennfield, NB on Hwy. #1.
Tuesday July 1
Still traveling east today, I stopped briefly to see the `Reversing Rapids' in
St. John, NB. At this point along the Bay of Fundy the tides are only about 30
feet but the river is half way between high and low tide so the direction of
its flow actually changes noticeably four times a day. There are large rocks in
places that cause the rapids, hence, the rapids are toward the land during
rising tides and toward the ocean (Bay of Fundy) during falling tides.
I wanted to convert some traveler's check to Canadian money but July 1 is
`Canada Day' and the banks were closed. You get a much fairer exchange rate at
banks then at merchants. I headed for `The Rocks'. My AAA Quarterly had a brief
description and a small photo which caused me to seek out this scenic wonder. I
got there near low tide so I was able to walk along the shore. A Park Ranger
suggested taking pictures in the morning when the sun would highlight the
colors of the rocks and red mud (bottom), and such. Today's tide was ~40'.
During spring tides (once a month when the moon and sun are properly aligned)
the tides can reach 47-48' at this location.
I camped the night at the Pine Ridge campground north of Moncton, the big city
north of `The Rocks'. There was a mild rain falling which ended by morning.
Wednesday July 2
My notes say "too many mosquito's and bugs". I checked my travel funds. At my
average rate of consuming money, the traveler's checks and cash I have on me
should last until September 10. Then I'll need to draw money from my checking
account. All's well. I converted $300 in traveler's checks at the Bank of
Montreal and got back $407.76 in Canadian dollars. Wow, that's neat!
I stopped at Magnetic Hill. Cars actually roll uphill. You pay $2, drive down a
slight grade, stop your car, foot off of the brake and you vehicle actually
rolls back up to the top. Boy, I must check this out. I then went back to `The
Thursday July 3
I camped last night at the nearest campground to `The Rocks' [It was also the
most expensive tent site of the whole trip, so far - $20]. In the morning I
took high tide picture's and movies. Then I headed back into town (Moncton) to
eat at Wendy's, to get 3 roll's of film developed, to get special batteries for
the back on my Nikon camera (it's intelligent), and to buy a beach ball to test
low tide pictures from the observation platform at "The Rocks"
Boy, they got me. Magnetic Hill is an illusion. A natural one that dates back
over a 100 years but it's really just natural landscaping that gives the
impression the up is down. Wow, was I embarrassed!!! You see, I believe in
magnetic anomalies around the globe and I though I had found one. Shit! But,
it's better to be embarrassed then not to be curious or inquisitive.
After photographing the railroad museum
snow plow south of Moncton, I headed for Nova Scotia via highways. Last
month was the grand opening of a bridge to PEI: Prince Edward Island. Prior to
the bridge the only way was by ferry. But I had been to PEI before so I skipped
it. I hadn't been to the fossil cliffs, Advocate Harbor, or Cape D'or in Nova
Scotia before so that was today's destination.
In Joggins, NS, where the
fossils cliffs are, I couldn't find any fossils on my own but a `local'
(person who lives here) showed me a small portion of a tree trunk turned to
stone in the cliff. In this location only plants and trees were to be found; no
critters turned to stone.
I headed for Advocate Harbor. I just love driving and the roads here are 2-lane
blacktop with very little traffic. As I drive I listen to my tapes (I brought
120 100-minute cassettes) and ponders the wonders of life. Sometimes I think
the driving is the best part of the whole trip.
I put my tent up at the Fundy Tides campground in strong winds. In fact, I used
the tent stakes and parked my truck so as to block the wind from blowing over
the tent. The tent I bought is a small domed affair with fiberglass rods to
support the nylon material. It's free-standing but light. I normally don't
stake it down.
Advocate Harbor picture
Friday July 4
The 4th of July! But I'm in Canada so no U.S. celebration. It rained much of the
night but I stayed dry and it had stopped be the time I got up. I took a long
walk (3 miles each way) along the `beach' to the mouth of Advocate Harbor.
`Beach' in quotes because there is no sand, only gravel. I stayed another night
at Fundy Tides campground.
I made 5 phone calls to 5 different family members but all I got was answering
machines, no people.
Saturday July 5
Last night was a cooler windy night and it had rained in the early morning but
everything was dry by the time I packed up and headed out.
Next stop Cape D'or (pronounced `door') and the lighthouse there. Had lunch at
the lighthouse keeper's kitchen.
Cape D'or photo.
Then on to Parrsboro, NS, my favorite Fundy photo spot. I put up my tent at the
municipal campground about 5 miles out of town. I had stayed there before:
cheap and convenient. I made a big camp fire and stayed up long enough to watch
it all but burn out. Each campground has it's own personality. Here in
Parrsboro I was in the trees, isolated and plenty of natural firewood all
around. Back at Fundy Tides there wasn't a tree within walking distance of any
camp site. You had to bring or buy firewood.
Sunday July 6
A goof-off day. Not many pictures. Drove around the area. Got lazy, etc.
Monday July 7
This is the day I chose to setup my tripod and wait through one whole tide
change - 6 hours. I started at high tide, set my camera back to print the time
in the lower corner of each print (see why I got the special batteries a few
days back?), and waited and waited and waited. Every 1/2 hour I would take 2
pictures: One at wide angle (28mm) and one at telephoto (70mm). Then I would do
the same with the HandiCam but hand held. Eventually, I also changed lenses to
get to 200mm, but I always left the camera body and tripod exactly in the same
spot. Well, after 4 hours the tide was totally gone from view so why take more
pictures? I didn't. It had gone out more than 1 1/2 miles from where I was and
it still had 2 hours more to go.
28mm Animated 70mm
Why not chase it? So I moved to a spot out past the lighthouse. Got some neat
pictures of the channel markers laying on the bottom
red marker, of
boats sitting on the bottom, and of a lighthouse far from shore.
Money review: In 5 days I spent $233 and very little driving. That's about
$46.60 per day in Canadian funds ($34.52 in US funds). Looking back at my
notes, I must have been worried (about money) because there's a comment --
"What's the big deal?" Remember, I have no income so this fun-in-the-sun
travel-thing can't last forever.
Glooscap Indian by the Chamber of Commerce
Three new pictures - well, old pictures, but added much later. 1)
Whenever I'd leave the campground and head for town, I'd come to a place where
the road turned towards the Bay of Fundy and was downhill to boot. After
several times of this, I decided to catch both a high-tide and low-tide picture
from this vantage point. I call it
"Two Poles High" and
"Two Poles Low" because I used the 2 telephone poles as a reference to
line the shots up (taken many hours apart).
2) Many tidal locations have what's called a tide clock. It has special timing
and markings matched to the 6 1/4-hour tide cycle. Parrsboro is no exception so
the Tide Clock near the pier.
3) Speaking of the Parrsboro pier, they put red posts along the pier to tie-off
boat lines. These red posts don't move so I used one of them as a fixed
reference to take 3 successive tide shots from the vantage point on top of the
Medium , and
Parrsboro web page.
I'm done with the Bay of Fundy [for now] so I made a beeline to Sidney (Nova
Scotia, not Australia) and the ferry to Newfoundland. I made it by 9 PM but I
had to camp. Motel rooms were mostly `No Vacancy' and very expensive.
Tuesday July 8
In the night last night I started feeling sick. I still did in the morning. I
only ate once yesterday plus an ice cream cone, pretzels and chips with warm
coke. That shouldn't do it. Sick = disease = DIS-EASE - I'm worried about
money? or getting my mail? or that I'm not facing something! I got sick right
after my shower. Luckily, I made it to the toilet.
I had time to kill before the 4 PM ferry to Nfld. so I got an oil change,
filter, and chassis lube at Wal-Mart. It's the first one in 3 1/2 years that I
didn't do myself but they let me supervise and `my baby' was ready for another
x miles. Then I did my laundry still feeling woozy. As I put my clean things in
the truck I started throwing up again then the dry heaves. I was worried that I
might have to take myself to a hospital. Then I remembered the new age/new
energy technique I'm learning called `co-creation'. I tried it and I
immediately stopped choking and carrying on then and there in the Laundromat
parking lot. I got in and drove away, not feeling quite 100%, but WOW!
The ferry took about 5 1/2 hours to cross the Atlantic to Nfld. I rented a cabin
near Doyles and took Nyquil before going to bed.
Wednesday July 9
I took a look at the 5 rolls of picture's that I got developed yesterday at
Wal-Mart while my oil was being changed. There were some really good ones. Now,
Newfoundland is on Atlantic time plus 1/2 hour. It is one of the few 1/2 hour
time zones in the world. I decided not to reset my clock. I would just add 1/2
and hour each time I looked at the clock. At 9:50 ADT and 10:20 Nfld. DT I was
packed and ready to go.
Thursday July 10
By now I had covered more than 5,700 miles plus 2 ferry crossings. [I'm typing
this on August 9 in Idaho Falls, ID. That time in Nfld. seems so long ago. But
I remember the details and I have the trip notes that I write every morning and
sometimes later in the day. I record the mileage and time in the morning every
morning plus some comments about the day before or the current day. I leave a
lot out. These Web-Page trip reports contain much more detail plus links to
I stayed 2 nights at the Ocean Acre B&B in Rocky Harbour on Newfoundland's
North-West coast in Gros Morne National Park.
For today's hike, I loaded up my backpack with cameras, fruit, water, spare
shoes, and a raincoat and set out to walk up Gros Morne, the 2nd highest
mountain in Nfld. It took about 8 hours to go 15 km (~10 miles) round trip. My
notes contain insights and enlightenment that I experience but these are
personal so I rarely include them here. This was a particularly beneficial
learning experience here. I did run into patches of melting snow - outside on
the ground. We don't have that where I used to live in Florida so I was
excited. It's been a while since I've seen snow.
Picture from the top
Friday July 11
Today I was to take a
boat trip into a fjord but fog canceled the trip. I did see some
Flowers along the trail to the boat dock. So I headed up to the tip on
the North-West shore. I took a nap (and some pictures) of
`The Arches' Provincial Park. I made it to
L'Anse aux Meadows where there is a Canadian National Historical Site -
The Vikings landed and lived here about 1000 years ago. The first Europeans in
North America. I was impressed with what I saw and learned there.
I proceeded up to St. Anthony and had one of the best baby-back rib dinners I
ever had. It was at the Lighthouse Kitchen at the point just south of the city.
Icebergs Then I made the long drive back the way I had come and camped
for the night.
Saturday July 12
6,100+ miles and the interesting notes below were typed verbatim from my
notebook so they may be a little hard reading:
Great Luck, he he he - more skill at impromptu. 1) made it back to the Irving
station with the lowest price on island (66.5 c/l), 2) found a campground that
was at the right spot at the right time !11:30 PM NFLD., 3) campground was
cheapest of whole trip so far $7 [Cdn]. Paid morning after (this morning), 4)
rain woke me up but I was sleepy so I went back to sleep several times - by the
time I was ready, the rain stopped and I was able to repack tent, S-bag, etc.
all nearly dry. - These notes made later at `The Arches' Prov. Pk. I feel good.
Item 1 above. Gas stations are few and far between but I wanted to get the
cheapest price. I keep a separate log book in my truck at all times and it
shows 478.5 miles on the tank when I filled up late at night at the Irving
station. The fuel gauge needle was not near the 'FULL' position, trust me. But
I wasn't about to run out, I still had a little over 4 gallons in the tank. All
of the Canadian fillups are in liters and Canadian prices. Later, I dig out my
trusty HEX-calculator and convert liters to US gallons and Canadian dollars to
For example, the entry for that fillup was -- Fri 7/11/97 ~10:05 PM ADT,
060,297.6 miles, 478.5 T. Odo, $40.00 CDN, 60.15 liters, 66.5 c/l, Irving near
Port au Croix. Then in red ink added later: $29.63 US, 15.89 gal, and 30.11
You had to be there to get the feeling "am I going to make it?". Boy, was I glad
I was alone and didn't have to deal with the fears of others. [You're gonna run
outta gas! Why didn't you stop sooner? Blah, blah, blah.] Seriously, neither of
my wives were that way and I'm forever grateful.
I then headed East across Newfoundland.
Sunday July 13
Camped last night in Terra Nova National Park. Familiesville [read `kids, noise,
etc.'] - a real opportunity for me to practice love and tolerance. In the
morning I straightened out the cab of the truck and cleaned the windshield. I
then headed to Bonavista, the landing spot of John Cabot, the discoverer of the
"New Founde Lande" for England 500 years ago on June 24, 1497. Celebrations
were being held all over the island and a replica of his ship, the Matthew, was
making ports of calls at all major towns and cities in Newfoundland this
At Bonavista there was also a restored historic
lighthouse dating back to the mid 1800's there and a
monument to John Cabot.
Next stop, St.
Cape Spear. Fog was just rolling in off of the ocean when I arrived.
Gorgeous. Cape Spear is the eastern most point in North America. [If you don't
count Alaska. Part of the Aleutian Islands are in the Eastern Hemisphere - a
little trivia for you!]
There was heavy cold rain and I was tired so I stayed in a motel that night. The
most expensive one to date, but worth it.
On Signal Hill just outside of St. John's is
Cabot Tower. Marconi sent the first trans-Atlantic radio message from
Cabot Tower in 1901 using mostly Nikola Tesla designs. Marconi's radio
patent(s) were later overturned in the US in 1943.
Good stuff in the book I'm reading: Kryon Book III - "Alchemy oh The Human
Spirit" (A guide to human transition into the New Age).
Monday July 14
Hung around St. John's most of the day. Got picture's developed at Wal-Mart.
It's a lot cheaper in Canada for one-hour photo. Typically, a 24 exposure, 35mm
roll of film cost $5.99 Canadian to get developed. Divide by the 35% exchange
rate and walla, $4.44 US per roll. Almost everything else is higher in Canada.
When you convert liters to gallons and do the exchange rate, gas prices are
really $1.51 to $2.04 per gallon and I always get the cheapest. If you buy name
brands and/or premium gas it costs even more.
New money evaluation: $410 in 12 days = $34 per day. Should last until Sept. 16.
I called the daughter that's forwarding my mail. While I'm here in Canada, I
won't take a chance on delays with customs, delays with 2 countries mail
methods, and my impromptu travel plans. So I asked Deirdre to pick through my
mail, opening some, and tossing others.
Tuesday July 15
Now I've covered over 7,100 miles. It rained last night and the tent leaked a
bit. A lot of things are wet or damp. I then covered a lot of miles getting
from St. John's to a campground near the Labrador ferry.
Oh Oh, much bad language in my note's. rain, wet, mosquito's, pant's falling
down as I pack up the camping stuff. An enlightened person knows they create
there own reality - ALL OF IT. I must have known this then because my notes
included the phrase "A Test!" I sat in my truck in the rain and re-organized
the cab of the truck.
[Observation added at the keyboard on August 9 - By July 15, I had been
traveling about 40 days and this is the first time I had to take down the tent
in the rain. While it had rained previously, by morning everything was dry.
Further, as of this typing on August 9, July 15 is still the only night camping
marred by rain at a inconvenient time. I'm truly blessed with incredible
weather! There are no accidents. We create our own reality.]
Pictures taken along the way include
panorama of the town of Gambo taken from Joey's Lookout to give you an
idea of how pretty it is in Newfoundland.
I headed for Lewisport and the 36-hour ferry to Goose Bay, Labrador which leaves
at 4 PM. I was asked to be there by 2 PM. At 1:30 as I was eating lunch, the
waitress asked if I listened to the news last night. Ha ha ha. Even in my own
country, in my own home, etc. I don't listen to the news. How would I find the
one radio station that serves Lewisport, turn my truck radio on at the right
time, at hear news? Never - not ever, no!
The ferry was having mechanical difficulty as of last night and hasn't left
Goose Bay yet. It's a 36 hour trip from when the repairs are complete. Not
likely to be here in 2 hours nor 24 hours. What to do?
While I was waiting to get more information about the ferry situation, I went to
Later, I called Marine Atlantic. They had fixed the problem with the ferry and
they were in sea trials. I figured I would lose about 2 days and I was already
feeling the time crunch if I was going to get to Hudson Bay (or James Bay, if I
couldn't find a way to get to Hudson Bay) then on to Wyoming by August 1st. So
I decided to go back the way I came - Take the ferry from Port aux Basques,
Nfld. to North Sidney, NS.
I changed my reservation and drove 340 miles that afternoon in time to catch the
11:30 PM ferry. While I was in the terminal, I called AT&T and asked how
much all my Canadian to US calls had been. Plus my Internet connection in Ft.
Kent, Maine was long distance for 58 minutes. Well first, the good news.
Internet call was just $12.xx. Then the bad news, the amount due was $227.99
plus $105 more since the bill was mailed for a total of $332.56. WOW. One month
of long distance charges while traveling, mostly in Canada, was more than I
wanted to spend. Now I'm an easy-come, easy-go spender BUT I have no income!
Needless to say I cut down on my calls to friends and family.
Wednesday July 16
The ferry arrived around 5 AM. I drove west (finally) toward Blomidon, NS on the
opposite side of the Bay of Fundy as Parrsboro. On the way, I stopped in New
Glasgo to dry out the tent while I ate at Subway. I arrived at my favorite
campground at `Look Off' point, high above the Bay of Fundy. I got a tent spot
alone in the woods. A new site only a few weeks old. And experiment. Perfect,
far from families and noise. I stayed 2 days and did nothing.
Thursday July 17
This was a time for reflection, reading, and listening to one of the tapes I
brought about the New Age. My notes of this day contain insights and questions,
analysis and opinions. Actually, far more daily notes than normal. I didn't
move the truck at all today.
I did get a full body massage from a local woman who was doing some experiments
with magnets. She demonstrated a sheet magnet, the kind refrigerator magnets
are made of. While she didn't profess to study new age materials, she certainly
covered a lot of topics I'm learning about. I asked her if she would like to
read "Kryon Book I - The End Times". She said yes and I made a note to find a
copy and send it to her. My other 2 loaner copies were already loaned out.
Friday July 18
It's not a far drive from Blomidon to Digby, NS where the ferry crosses the Bay
of Fundy to St. John's, NB. I arrived by 7:30 AM (I broke camp at 5:51 AM) but
the morning ferry left at 5 AM. The 1 PM ferry was sold out and I would have to
be put on the `wait list' or wait until 8:30 PM for the night ferry. Wow, a
whole day shot. Na, not with my luck. Only 4 cars from the `wait list' made the
1 PM ferry. I was #3. Had I not got there at 7:30 that morning, I would have
been to far down the list. See, there are no accidents. I rented a cabin on the
ferry, relaxed and slept. The 3 hour crossing went by quickly.
In St. John I looked for the Kryon book. The one bookstore that listed Lee
Carroll's books could get me Kryon - Book IV but I would have to order it.
Right, I'm passing through. So, I decided to look in the next big town I came
to. I headed east to Maine.
I reached Bangor about 8:30 PM (EDT again). Now I would have to find a motel
with all of the right qualifications. No, I don't care if it was/is a
non-smoking room. Different qualifications: 1) Right price (under $40/night
single), 2) phone in room (for Internet access), 3) 1st floor to haul all my
boxes in, 4) room entrance next to parking space not a long hall way) and 5) OK
with them to setup my stuff and logon. Of course I found it. You already got
that E-mail, but not that night. I setup my PC, played some computer games and
went to sleep. Ah, life's rough...
Saturday July 19
One of the reasons I brought a desktop PC instead of a laptop is money. I
already owned a 200 MHz Pentium. But, the other 2 reasons is my 17" MAG
Innovision monitor and slots. I have a PCI network card, an ISDN card, a video
capture card, a SCSI card for my scanner, an internal modem, a PCI video card
w/8MB RAM on it, and a Turtle Beach sound card. Until now, it didn't all quite
work seemlessly. It seems my bus mouse used an interrupt needed by my
SCSI/scanner card. So I set the scanner to IRQ10. If the SCSI card was
installed when sound was active - crash. AOL uses sound. So up until now, I
would install the SCSI card, scan the pictures, remove the card and log onto
Now I'm the wizard of PC's and I knew what to do. But having the right parts
while traipsing around the US and Canada - that's another story. Weeks before,
I bought a 9-pin to DIN adapter to move my mouse to COM1 thereby freeing up an
interrupt above IRQ8. Well, I found it at Radio Shack but when I tried it, the
sex was all wrong. (A lot like my sex life on the road [or anywhere else for
that matter]!). So the quest for the correct 9-pin to DIN continued until? Gee,
I don't remember just where I found it but it was in a small town in an
unlikely store like office supplies. One of the employees just happened to be a
PC nut and kept all sorts of odds and ends around for his customers - me!
In Bangor I got to try it. I moved the mouse from IRQ12 to IRQ4 (COM1 default).
I then set the SCSI/scanner card from IRQ10 to IRQ12, and viola, it worked!
Well, Windows 95 complained that a new device was added - the mouse. But I'm
getting good at making Windows 95 accept my hardware configuration. I also run
Windows-For-Workgroups. It finds the mouse, uses it, and goes on it's merry
way. Why can't Windows 95 be that easy? Oh, I forgot. It's "Plug-N-Play". I
connected up some speakers and I had a fully functional PC in Bangor, Maine for
my last E-mail and newsletter.
I spent 18 hours today scanning pictures, updating my web pages, sending the
E-mail, and doing the printed newsletter. I tried to speed up the printing by
having all of the pictures on one side and just text on the other. This time
instead of 3 hours per side or six hours total to print 57 newsletters it took
4 hours to print the picture side and, you guessed it, 2 hours to print the
text side for 6 hours total for 59 newsletters.
Sunday July 20
I worked 4 more hours this morning for a total of 22 hours to keep you up to
date. At this point, I've driven 8,100+ miles and have traveled for more than
Newfoundland One web page
Newfoundland Two web page